List_of_Charvet_customers

List of Charvet customers

List of Charvet customers

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Charvet Place Vendôme or simply Charvet is a French high-end bespoke and ready-to-wear shirtmaker, located at 28 Place Vendôme in Paris. Its list of customers is notable[1] for its time span, Charvet existing since 1838 and having been the first shirt store ever,[2] and as a paradigm of an international[3] "aristo-dandy crossover community".[4] In the 19th century, the shirtmaker both specialized in "royal haberdashery"[5] and attracted the patronage of artists.[n. 1] In the 20th century, with the development of fashion design, designers and fashion journalists became a significant customer group. Some other customers' interest in the brand has become a notable aspect of their personality. In keeping[11] with a tradition of discretion of French couture houses,[n. 2] the company declines to comment on its customers list, as a service to its customers.[13]

Main article: Charvet Place Vendôme

Kings, princes, heads of state and heads of government

Portrait (1905) of King Edward VII by Luke Fildes, Royal College of Physicians
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Writers, artists and actors

Portrait (1897) by Boldini of Montesquiou in a Charvet shirt and tie,[63] Musée d'Orsay
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Designers and fashion specialists

Caricature (1920s) by Sem of Berry Wall at Charvet
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Other clients with a notable interest in Charvet

Photo (2009) of Ray Kelly wearing a Charvet tie reproduced in Chaille's Book of Ties.[24]
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Notes

  1. [N 1]
    According to Robert de Montesquiou, "nobody in the world ever saw such things! Pinks, blues, lilacs, in silk, and in cobweb! Charvet is the greatest artist in the Creation".[6] Jean Cocteau called Charvet "magic"[7] and wrote that it is "where the rainbow finds ideas".[8] According to the French historian Anne Martin-Fugier, referring to Balzac's notion of the "triple aristocracy of money, power and talent",[9] the participation of artists was characteristic of the lifestyle of the Parisian fashionable upper class: "their works proceed of their person, bear its mark and testify of its value as the walk, the style, the luxury of the furnishing proceeds of the person of the man of quality".[10]
  2. [N 2]
    At the end of the 19th century Édouard Charvet made a point of never greeting first a lady customer in the street.[12]
  3. [N 3]
    Abdul Hamid II, though he advocated "simplicity"[14] in every day clothing, was a "sumptuous"[15] customer of Charvet suits. He ordered some 40 costumes a year and trusted the taste of Charvet for the selection of the cloth.[16] Charvet "barely dared" send invoices to the sultan.[15],[17] A white monogrammed waistcoat made for him by Charvet is on display at the Topkapı Palace.[18]
  4. [N 4]
    Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1878.
  5. [N 5]
    Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1913.
  6. [N 6]
    Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1879.
  7. [N 7]
    In 1869, Charvet was granted a royal warrant of "chemisier in Paris" (shirtmaker in Paris)[26] to the prince of Wales and would remain his shirt maker into the 20th century, appointed in 1903 "hosier and glover in Paris".[27] As Edward VII was considered an "arbiter of masculine fashions" and looked upon "as the glass of fashion for his day",[28] this patronage contributed significantly to the notoriety of Charvet: an 1874 guide advised American tourists Charvet shirts were one of Paris specialties, "stamped with high approval by the patronage of the Prince of Wales".[29] The patronage stirred polemics in the United Kingdom, as the prince was "accused of not sufficiently encouraging home industries and of purchasing annually hundreds of pairs of gloves on the continent".[30]
  8. [N 8]
    The shirtmaker achieved significant[34] – and sometimes exaggerated[35] – coverage in Irish media when it emerged that former Taoiseach Charles Haughey, then after nicknamed "Charvet Charlie",[36] had misappropriated over $50,000 of state funds while in office to purchase shirts and dressing gowns from Charvet, where the staff addressed him as "your excellency",[37] and had them delivered via the diplomatic "black box" system,[38] at a time when he was exhorting Irish citizens to "tighten their belts". This was described by Mr Haughey himself as "having gone into the folklore"[39] and resulted in a surge of Irish visitors at the Paris store.[40] · [41] · [42] According to The Boston Globe, conspicuous Irish visitors to the Charvet shop "pose for photographs outside the venerable shop, and sometimes venture inside to gawk at the crystal chandeliers, the oak paneling, the Oriental rugs and the cuff links in bowls scattered around the shop. And they pose indelicate questions about their former prime minister".[43] When Sebastian Barry's Hinterland, a play on Haughey, was first played in 2002, the Sunday Tribune reviewer asked: "Is this a Charvet shirt I see before me?"[44]
  9. [N 9]
    Kennedy wore custom-made shirts from Charvet but kept their origin a secret.[46] He had the labels of his Charvet shirts removed.[47] A Charvet shirt having belonged to Kennedy is on display at Berlin's Checkpoint Charlie Museum.[48]
  10. [N 10]
    The maharaja once placed a single order of 86 dozen shirts.[56] Charvet had to construct special trunks to ship them to him.[57] Each item was embroidered with his crest. The bill for the monogramming alone was $ 67,000.[58]
  11. [N 11]
    Warrant granted in 1893.
  12. [N 12]
    Barton's haberdashery came from Charvet's, Place Vendôme,[69] and embraced "a varied assortment of colored striped shirts, with drawers and collars of the same material to match each shirt, white silk undershirts, beige silk pajamas (emblazoned with white frogs), and white, watered-silk suspenders. Each of his pairs of trousers ha[d] its own pair of suspenders".[70] "In Paris he began to affect Charvet cravats encircled with a scarab seal ring."[71]
  13. [N 13]
    The French writer wore a red silken Charvet dressing gown when he committed suicide, to ensure blood did not show too much.[110]
  14. [N 14]
    Charvet created for Guitry a double button turned-down cuff often referred to as the "milanese" cuff.[114]
  15. [N 15]
    Bernard-Henri Lévy, often referred to as BHL, is described as a "provocateur", a "showman", who "wears the mantle of polarizing intellectual quite happily along with made-to-measure clothing from French house Charvet".[128] His shirt style has become a signature,[129] but he says he "has no interest discussing the suavely unbuttoned garment that for his fans and his detractors alike has become synonymous with his name."[130] Nevertheless, his critics consider this unbuttoned white shirt "is an important element of BHL's TV and public images and it tells a lot about the man. If you tried it with your own shirt, the collar would sag. But BHL's shirts are specially designed by the famous shirt-maker Charvet, with collars that withstand the unbuttoning and never disappear under his jacket",[131] also made by Charvet.[132]
  16. [N 16]
    Menjou had the reputation to be Hollywood's "best dressed man" and lived up to it by coming onto the set each day with Charvet dressing gowns.[139]
  17. [N 17]
    In a letter to Montesquiou, Marcel Proust alludes to a caricature by Sem of Montesquiou examining fabrics at Charvet.[143]
  18. [N 18]
    "His shirts and waistcoasts were from Charvet, he told me. What interested him in Charvet was the sign of a certain world, of a certain elegance"[148]
  19. [N 19]
    Asked by a reporter of Fashion Week Daily: "Do you have a uniform?". He answered: "Black cashmere sweater, Charvet shirt, Levi's, and Converse All Stars."[175] "He has bought his dress shirts at Charvet in Paris for the last 15 years", wrote the New York Times in 2004.[176]
  20. [N 20]
    She used Charvet ties as belts for herself[183] and as a ballet costume designer[184]
  21. [N 21]
    Louboutin wears Charvet shirts[198] and collects Charvet ties, which he owns in hundreds[199] and considers "the most treasured part" of his wardrobe and a "constant source of inspirations:[200]" If I go shopping, it might be to buy two or three more ties, which I never wear, or shirts from Charvet on Place Vendôme. Here they have the most magnificent colored ties: it's like looking at a lovely garden. I have tons of them at home and I am perfectly happy not to wear them."[201] One of his line of lady shoes had "witty, wicked designs made of Charvet tie fabric".[202]
  22. [N 22]
    A "crisp white Charvet shirt, made to his own specifications by the famed Paris menswear store"[211] is Rucci's "signature".[212] His fabric of choice is "the "heavy, white piqué" that he replenishes three times a year. There is a tradition of care [at Charvet] that the want to be perfect. It is really couture for men" declares Rucci [... He] estimates that he now owns at least 110 of the shirts that have become his trademark, every last one in white piqué with "two lowercase Rs embroidered in cinnabar [his signature color] at the base of the neck [...] I must have tried 25 other fabrics but I always end up giving them away [...] My white piqué shirts empowers me."[13]
  23. [N 23]
    Talley wears "tie[s] and socks [...] from Charvet of Paris, the same couturier that used to make – along with the Duke of Windsor's shirts – [his] boxer shorts, until that became "cost prohibitive".[216] He is also keen about Charvet shirts:"I have a wonderful white cotton shirt. I always love white cotton shirts. Pique collar and cuffs, from Paris. It wasn't imported from Paris; I went to Paris and had it fitted. I had fittings. I have fittings for my neckties. My neckties from Charvet. You have to have fittings for your tie ... so it's the right length. My socks are from Charvet. I don't have fittings for those".[217] He explains: "I admire perfection in small details. Look at these cuffs. (He holds his shirt under [a journalist's] eyes) Look at the stitches on the piqué. Where can this be done today? Only Charvet in Paris, Place Vendôme. All my shirts are custom made at Charvet."[218] In a January issue of Vogue, he wrote his New Year's fashion resolution was "to order custom Charvet pique tennis shorts and silk kneesocks the color of clotted cream".[219] In a sequence of the movie The September Issue, he says: "I have these custom nightshirts made at Charvet in Paris. I only wear them when I am at Mr. Karl Laggerfield's summer house vacationing. For if you pass Mr. Karl Laggerfield in the hallway, you must be appropriately attired at all times!".[220]
  24. [N 24]
    Berry Wall, nicknamed the "King of the Dudes, added to Charvet's fame by the caricatures of him produced by Sem. At that time, Wall was living with his wife and chow dog Chi-Chi in the Hôtel Meurice, near Charvet, where he had the same signature ties and "spread eagle" collar shirts made for himself and his dog. Wall's famous "startling" striped shirts in red and sky blue were well known, with their very high false collars of a pattern different from the shirt's. His dog not only dined with him,[226] but also wore Charvet collars and ties in the same style and fabric as his master's.[227] The caricature shown had so much success that the Paris restaurant Ciro's, where Wall was a regular patron, had a reproduction of the dog made, in stuffed fabric, with his master's false collar around the neck, to be offered to guests.[228] The caricature (top, right) is reproduced in François Chaille's Book of Ties,[24] but Chaille fails to identify Wall.
  25. [N 25]
    "At once an epicure and a mystic, [Bigelow] professed an ascetic religion and wore beautiful Charvet haberdashery",[231] particularly neckties[232] and silk shirts. Charvet "disapprove[d] of the silk shirts, the use of which, he allege[d], [was] confined to Mr James Hazen Hyde and a few bounders of his class. Yet, to please [him], Mr Charvet kindly consent[ed] to make [him] a pattern silk shirt, provided he [could] accompany it by a pattern linen pleated shirt, to be made up starchless, like a handkerchief.".[233]
  26. [N 26]
    According to a Chicago Tribune journalist: "Historians should note that, although Blagojevich has made much of his humble beginnings, his elegant pearl-gray [is from] Charvet [...] he now buys only Charvet."[234] Charvet is noted as his "preferred [tie] brand".[235] During his federal trial, court records established that he bought at Neiman Marcus at least two of those ties there, paying $170 for one in 2007 and $195 for the other in 2008".[236] A Saks associate said over the phone that he believed another associate there had sold Charvet ties at $195 to Blagojevich.[237]
  27. [N 27]
    In the early 20th century, Charvet launched a toilet water, in a rectangular beveled bottle. One of the customers for this perfume was Boy Capel, Coco Chanel's lover. In 1921, two years after his accidental death, the flacon of Chanel's famous Nº 5 perfume was produced in the image of the Charvet bottle used by Capel.[238]
  28. [N 28]
    Mr Kelly's ideal style is "bespoke suits and Charvet ties."[239] Often noted for wearing Charvet ties,[240] he admits a "personal weakness for [...] Charvet neckwear",[241] which is "high quality and look[s] the best"[242] and he considers as "some sort of statement".[53] On other occasions, he presented this predilection as part of his business behaviour, saying: "Contrary to what was suggested,if the mayor replaces me, I will not miss wearing my [...] Charvet tie".[243] Mr. Kelly says he "can tell when someone's wearing Charvet from a distance – even dark colors stand out".[53]
  29. [N 29]
    An auction of articles once belonging to Bernard Madoff was organized on November 13, 2010, by the United States Marshals Service[244] to compensate victims of Madoff's Ponzi scheme.[245] The auction included many items from Charvet, such as 138 pairs of socks,[246] 11 boxer shorts,[247] "loads of neckties"[248] and "hundreds of sweaters, polo shirts, and custom-made monogrammed Charvet dress shirts."[245]
  30. [N 30]
    Tang, who likes to wear at home "all days pyjamas – custom made in cotton by Charvet",[249] has Charvet embroider " "Do not disturb DT" or "DT sleeping" on the pocket. [He says] the most luxurious thing is to change your fine Egyptian-cotton pyjamas and sheets each day"[250] · [251] and considers Charvet "the best shirtmaker in the world".[252]

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