List_of_first_ascents

List of first ascents of mountain summits

List of first ascents of mountain summits

For mountain peaks only

For notable first ascents in rock climbing, see List of grade milestones in rock climbing.

The following is a list of notable first ascents of the summits of major mountains around the world, in chronological order.

The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. For example, this list contains the first ascent of the summit of the Eiger in 1858, but not the more famous first ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1938.

More information Date, Peak ...

See also

References

  1. [1]
    An asterisk indicates that this is only the date of the first recorded ascent. There is either evidence for an earlier ascent or earlier ascents are very likely.
  2. [2]
    Cariño, Delmar (27 April 2009). "Respect mummies, Pulag trekkers told". Inquirer.net. Archived from the original on 28 April 2009. Retrieved 5 March 2012.
  3. [3]
    Suggested to be the "king's mountain" described in the late 8th century by Paul the Deacon in his History of the Lombards.
  4. [4]
    En no Ozunu is a semi-legendary figure, and some accounts have him flying to the top
  5. [5]
    From a contemporary chronicle by Salimbene: the story is at least partly legendary, as Peter has a meeting with a dragon on top.
  6. [6]
    Ascent disputed
  7. [7]
    The first written account of an ascent of Gran Sasso, but clearly not the first ascent, as the chamois hunter Francesco Di Domenico had been to the top already and was eager to go back there. Source: La cronaca della prima asensione sulla vetta del Gran Sasso Archived 2015-06-20 at the Wayback Machine (Italian)
  8. [8]
    Erschliessung 2, 380, 423
  9. [9]
    Atilla Hevesi, The life and scientific work of Dávid Frölich
  10. [10]
    Perhaps did not climb nor attempt to climb the summit.
  11. [11]
    Favret Andrea, Leggende: la prima scalata al Monte Cavallo
  12. [12]
    For long considered to have been climbed by David Pappus and guides more than a century earlier, in August 1610, but this was a misconception. See Manfred Tschaikner, Das Urbar der Herrschaften Bludenz und Sonnenberg von 1620 – ein Überblick
  13. [13]
    Erschliessung 3, 247-8
  14. [14]
    Francis Gribble, The story of Alpine Climbing, London, 1904, pp. 41-9
  15. [15]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 467-8
  16. [16]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 53-4
  17. [17]
    Marianne Klemun, Mit Madame Sonne konferieren: die Grossglockner-Expeditionen 1799 und 1800 Archived 2014-07-26 at the Wayback Machine, Verlag des Kärntner Landesarchivs, 2000, p. 77
  18. [18]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 50-2
  19. [19]
    La conquête du Vignemale Archived 2013-04-08 at the Wayback Machine at pyrenees-passion.info
  20. [20]
    Erschliessung 3, 208-9
  21. [21]
    Erschliessung 3, 168-70
  22. [22]
    Klemun, pp. 153-5
  23. [23]
    Erschliessung 3, 170-2
  24. [24]
    Klemun, pp. 160-7
  25. [25]
    Peter Zimmermann, Valentin Stanič – Bergsteiger, Schriftsteller, Wohltäter. Eigenverlag der Bayerisch-Slowenischen Gesellschaft, Regensburg 2000.
  26. [26]
    Montano, Dr. Joseph. "Voyage Aux Philippines et en Malaisie", p. 246. Labrairie Hechette, Paris, 1886.
  27. [27]
    Maso, Miguel Saderra. "Volcanoes and Seismic Centers of the Philippines", p.27. Department of Commerce and Labor, 1904.
  28. [28]
    Followed by Louis Ramond de Carbonnières and others three days later
  29. [29]
    "Charles Turner account of climbing Katahdin, 1804".
  30. [30]
    Erschliessung 2, 68-72.
  31. [31]
    W.A.B. Coolidge, The Alps in nature and history, E.P. Dutton publishers, New York, 1908, p. 398
  32. [32]
    Studer, Vol 1, pp. 102-8
  33. [33]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 301-3
  34. [34]
    Erschliessung 1, 327-8
  35. [35]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp.67-70
  36. [36]
    Erschliessung 1,121-2. Local people had climbed Zugspitze over 50 years earlier, according to a 1770 map discovered by the Alpenverein
  37. [37]
    Erschliessung 2, 433 (The botanist stopped 5 m below the summit)
  38. [38]
    Stephen Slemon and Zac Robinson (2011) Deception in High Places Archived 2016-03-08 at the Wayback Machine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 94, pp. 12-17.
  39. [39]
    Erschliessung 3, 220-1
  40. [40]
    Paul Caminada, Pioniere der Alpentopographie: die Geschichte der Schweizer Kartenkunst, AS Verlag, 2003. Page 96
  41. [41]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 80-4
  42. [42]
    Erschliessung 2, 352-4.
  43. [43]
    Erschliessung 1, 331-2, 335
  44. [44]
    Erschliessung 2, 326
  45. [45]
    The ascents of Lienhard/Chuonard in 1573, who put a golden cross on top, and of pastor Zadrell/Zodrell in 1710, who found crampons on top and was attacked by an eagle, are thought to be legends.
  46. [46]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 382-5
  47. [47]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 146-8
  48. [48]
    Erschliessung 2, 447-9
  49. [49]
    Erschliessung 2, 417-9
  50. [50]
    Benoît Nicolas Magnin, The Ascent of the Central Aiguille d'Arves, AJ, Volume 18, 1895, pp 165-8.
  51. [51]
    Erschliessung 3, 134-136
  52. [52]
    Aneto. Primer ascensión histórica. Website dedicated to first ascent of Aneto (in Spanish and French)
  53. [53]
    Erschliessung 3, 66
  54. [54]
    Hanspaul Menara, Hannsjörg Hager, Berge und Bergsteiger: Alpingeschichte Südtirols, Verlagsanstalt Athesia, 1994, pp. 55-57.
  55. [55]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 355-6
  56. [56]
    Anton Farbmacher, Ersteigung der Schramaspitze, Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins, 1901, volume 27, pp. 59-60. (Originally published in Boten von und für Tirol und Vorarlberg, 1847, p. 288-292.)
  57. [57]
    Possibly Olmec ascents as early as the 12th century
  58. [58]
    Erschliessung 2, 251-7
  59. [59]
    Repeated on 22 Aug 1851 by Johann Zumtaugwald, Peter Taugwalder, Peter Inderbinen and Adolf and Hermann Schlagintweit. Wolfgang Pusch, Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen, Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2013, p. 119
  60. [60]
    In 1891 W.A.B. Coolidge deduced that they had reached the 4,618 m Grenzgipfel, but he may have been in error. Studer, Vol 2, pp. 78-85
  61. [61]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 87-90
  62. [62]
    Because of its eruption in 1980, the highest point of Mt St Helens is now 400 m lower
  63. [63]
    Erschliessung 3, 111-2
  64. [64]
    Edmond S. Meany, First Ascent of Mount Adams in The Mountaineer, December 1917, vol.X, p.26-28.
  65. [65]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 85-6
  66. [66]
    Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps, London: Diadem, 1994, page 62
  67. [67]
    There is disputed claim of an ascent in August 1854 with Dryer, Olney, Haller, Lake, Travailot, Barlow, and others. See Sam Barlow for more. Some also consider an ascent by Joel Palmer in 1845 to have been the first ascent, though Palmer himself wrote that they did not summit.
  68. [68]
    Studer, Vol 1, pp. 144-5
  69. [69]
    The Irishman Ball was guided by an anonymous local (Venetian) chamois hunter up to the summit ridge, about 30 m below the summit.
  70. [70]
    Erschliessung, 3, pp. 475-6
  71. [71]
    Studer, Vol 1, pp. 196-7
  72. [72]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 117-9
  73. [73]
    F. F. Tuckett (1862) The Ascent of the Aletschhorn in Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, pp. 33-72
  74. [74]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 220-2
  75. [75]
    Stephen misspelled his guides as "Zügler" and "Appener"; Studer, Vol 1, pp. 212-6
  76. [76]
    John Ormsby (1862) Ascent of the Grivola in Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, pp. 318-38
  77. [77]
    Wolfgang Pusch, Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen, Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2013, p. 103
  78. [78]
    J.J. Cowell, Two Ascents of the Grand Paradis, Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, Volume 2, pp 408-426, London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Robets, 1862
  79. [79]
    Leslie Stephen, The Ascent of the Schreckhorn, Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, Volume 2, pp 3-14, London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Robets, 1862
  80. [80]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 145-6
  81. [81]
    William Mathews, Ascent of Monte Visto, Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, Volume 2, pp 148-177, London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Robets, 1862
  82. [82]
    Burton reported that the 1847 attempt by the Jamaican Joseph Merrick stranded after climbing 9000 feet.
  83. [83]
    Gustav Mann and porters may have been the first on the summit on 18 December 1861; against Calvo's wishes, Burton and Calvo and porters climbed the highest summit from basecamp on the 25th when Mann was sick with dysentery. James L. Newman, Paths Without Glory: Richard Francis Burton in Africa, Potomac Books, Inc., 2009, pp. 162-165
  84. [84]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 190-1
  85. [85]
    Erschliessung 2, 25
  86. [86]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 206-8
  87. [87]
    Michel Caviezel, Tourist's Guide to the Upper Engadine, 1875, p. 179
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 109-10
  88. [88]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 288-93
  89. [89]
    Studer, Vol 1, pp. 224-9
  90. [90]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 257-9
  91. [91]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 130-3
  92. [92]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 322-3
  93. [93]
    Studer, Vol 2, pp. 166-73
  94. [94]
    Erschliessung 2, 10-12
  95. [95]
    Studer, Vol 3, pp. 233-4
  96. [96]
    Silva, Gustavo (2001). "Los Picos más Altos del Estado Mérida-Venezuela" [The highest peaks of Mérida State-Venezuela] (PDF). Revista Geográfica Venezolana. 42 (1): 76.
  97. [97]
    Douglas Freshfield, Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan, Longmans, Green, & Company, 1869, pp. 196-206
  98. [98]
    Erschliessung 2, 307
  99. [99]
    Florence Craufurd Grove, 'The Frosty Caucasus:̓: An Account of a Walk Through Part of the Range and an Ascent of Elbruz in the Summer of 1874, London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1875
  100. [100]
    "Mountain Climbers Alliance of the Philippines, Inc". Archived from the original on 2013-12-04. Retrieved 2014-06-22.
  101. [101]
    Graham, Boss and Kaufmann reported being stymied 30 feet below the icycle-like summit
  102. [102]
    "Hans Meyer: the first person to climb Kilimanjaro". Climb Mount Kilimanjaro.
  103. [103]
    After the peak collapsed in 1991 and following erosion of the exposed ice cap, Aoraki is now 40 m lower
  104. [104]
    The summit was nearly reached on March 3, 1882 by the Swiss guide Ulrich Kaufmann guiding the Swiss hotelier Emil Boss and the Irish reverend William Spotswood Green.
  105. [105]
    Vajolet Towers at summitpost.org
  106. [106]
    Filippo de Filippi, The Ascent of Mount St. Elias Alaska by H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amedeo de Savoia, Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1900
  107. [107]
    Possibly climbed as early as 1873
  108. [108]
    William Martin Conway, Climbs and Explorations in the Andes, 1899
  109. [109]
    Stöpel, Karl Theodor (1905). "Eine Reise in das Innere der insel Formosa und die erste Besteigung des Niitakayama (Mount Morrison): Weihnachten 1898".
  110. [110]
    Ewald Weiss, Campanile Basso/Guglia di Brenta, 100 Jahre Alpingeschichte am "Welträtsel am Stein", 1999
  111. [111]
    "The AE Blog: 13 September 1899 – Mackinder, Ollier and Brocherel make the first ascent of Batian (5,199 m – 17,058 ft), the highest peak of Mount Kenya". September 14, 2013.
  112. [112]
    J.G.R. Harding, Cambridge Expedition, 1956, to the Elburz Mountains, Iran, HJ, Vol 20
  113. [113]
    HEM Stutfield & Norman Collie, Ascent of Mount Forbes in Climbs & Explorations in the Canadian Rockies, Longmans, Green and co., 1903
  114. [114]
    André Meyer, Exploration of the Albert National Park - Mission for volcanic studies, Brussels 1955. Page 23
  115. [115]
    In 1901, Carl Uhlig and Lieutenant Schieritz (and porters probably) already came to within 100 m from the summit
  116. [116]
    On the highest peaks of the Rwenzori at rwenzoriabruzzi.com
  117. [117]
    Maroon Bells may have been climbed as aryl as 1883-1885 by Land Office surveyors or in the 1890s by C. P. Wilsson from Pueblo
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    Lefebvre, Thierry L'invention occidentale de la haute montagne andine, M@ppemonde Vol. 19, p. 16 (2005)
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    Neate, Jill (1994). Mountaineering in the Andes: a sourcebook for climbers Paperback. Geographical Society. ISBN 0907649645. On 16 January 1911, accompanied by L. Hedderich, he made the first ascent of Pico Humboldt. During the same expedition Jahn and some Venezuelan surveyors made first ascents of Micanon, Tucani and Pico de los Conejos in the Sierra del Norte. A further attempt on Pico Bolίvar in 1915 failed on account of sickness in the party. Dr. Jahn's writings include geography, geology and glaciology.
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    "Mitre Peak / Rahotu, 1683m". 25 April 2010.
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    Kmunke's expedition report, 1913 and HB Thomas and RFJ Lindesll Early Ascents of Mount Elgon, The Uganda Journal, Sept 1956
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    William Lowell Putnam, Andrew J. Kauffman, The Guiding Spirit, Light Technology Publishing, 1986
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    Mawenzi climbing guide Archived 2014-04-13 at the Wayback Machine
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    Pieter van Royen The Alpine Flora of New Guinea, J. Cramer, 1980, p. 259
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    August Adriaan Pulle (1915) Naar het sneeuwgebergte van Nieuw Guinea
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    "Ascent of Crestone Peak on 1916-07-24 - Peakbagger.com".
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    [dead link]
  128. [128]
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    Charles S. Houston Denali's Wife AAJ Vol. 2 p. 285 (1935)
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    William P. House The Ascent of Mt. Waddington AAJ Vol. 3 p. 21 (1937)
  135. [135]
    Günter Seyfferth, Nanda Devi exploration and first ascents
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    Karl Wien, The Ascent of Siniolchu and Simvu North Peak 1, HJ 9 (1937)
  137. [137]
    Melting of the ice cap covering the climbed summit has reduced its height by about 40 m
  138. [138]
    F. Spencer Chapman, The Ascent of Chomolhari, 1937, HJ 10 (1938)
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  140. [140]
    First free ascent, not using the ladder
  141. [141]
    Bradford Washburn The Ascent of Mt. St. Agnes AAJ Vol. 3 p. 255 (1939)
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    Kirill Kuzmin The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m high
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    Alexey Raspopov, Talgar. The highest mountain of Zailiysky Alatau Range
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    Noyce and Cox stopped 30-50 m below the summit in deference to its sacred nature. The mountain has been completely off limits since then.
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Notes and further reading

  • German and Austrian Alpine Club, Die Erschliessung der Ostalpen Volumes 1, 2, and 3, Berlin, 1894.
  • Gottlieb Studer, Über Eis und Schnee: Die höchsten Gipfel der Schweiz und die Geschichte ihrer Besteigung, Volumes 1, 2, and 3, Schmid, Francke & Company, 1869-1899
  • Frederick L. Wolfe, High Summits: 370 Famous Peak First Ascents and Other Significant Events in Mountaineering History, Hugo House Publishers, 2013, ISBN 1936449358 (for a guideline; the book contains many major errors)

Abbreviations in the reference list: AAJ: American Alpine Journal, AJ: The Alpine Journal, HJ: The_Himalayan Journal.
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