Stefano_Pilati

Stefano Pilati

Stefano Pilati

Italian fashion designer (born 1965)

Stefano Pilati (born December 10, 1965, in Milan)[2] is an Italian fashion designer. In 2017 he founded Random Identities, a ready-to-wear brand.[3]

Quick Facts Born, Occupation ...

From 2004 until 2012, Pilati was the head designer of Yves Saint Laurent.[1] In late 2012 he left YSL to be head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna,[4] where he was responsible for the Italian house's couture collections until February 2016.[5] In tandem with that position, he also headed Zegna's Agnona brand (women's apparel) until July 2015.[6]

Early life

Pilati grew up in Milan.[7]

Career

Having seen his hometown grow into a fashion hotspot in the 1980s, Pilati gave up his course in environmental design and joined the fashion house Cerruti as an intern.[2] He thus decided to embrace Milan's fashion scene and set out to learn everything there was to know about ready-to-wear apparel materials and production. A velvet manufacturer offered him his first job. A few months later, Pilati was designing that company's entire collection, and presenting it to Europe's leading ready-to-wear names.

The fashion house Giorgio Armani hired Pilati as an assistant in its men's ready-to-wear department in 1993. The fashion house Prada employed him to run its fabric research and development in 1995.[1] In 1998 Prada promoted him to assistant designer at Miu Miu, working on men's and women's ready-to-wear clothing and reporting directly to Miuccia Prada.[8]

Yves Saint Laurent, 2000–2012

In 2000, Pilati joined fashion house Yves Saint Laurent to run its ready-to-wear and accessories design for both men's and women's; in 2004 Pilati succeeded Tom Ford in his role of Creative Director. During his tenure as head designer, Pilati was responsible for creating fashion staples such as the tulip skirt, as well as extremely successful accessories such as the Muse bag,[1] and the YSL Tribute sandal.[9] After eight years Pilati and the Kering Group parted ways and he left YSL in 2012.[9]

While at YSL, Pilati re-introduced booking former top Models for YSL’s ad-campaigns and worked with iconic photographers such as Juergen Teller and Inez Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. He also created a democratic form of street advertising publishing limited edition Manifesto(s). In addition to his work at YSL, he created costumes for the production of Harold Pinter's play Betrayal, which opened in June 2011 at the Comedy Theatre in London.[10]

Zegna, 2012–2016

In late 2012, Pilati signed on at Ermenegildo Zegna, becoming the head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna and creative director of Agnona,[11] overseeing Zegna's fashion show and the couture collection.[12] Zegna created a new label for him, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture. Pilati held his first Zegna Couture show during the Milan menswear collection in June 2013.[13] In the following years, his catwalk collections were critically lauded but barely produced.[14] In 2015, he left Agnona.[11] By February 2016, he also stepped down from his role at Zegna.[15]

Random Identities, 2017–present

In 2017, using his personal Instagram account, Pilati uploaded 17 looks from a new, self-started brand called Random Identities.[16] In fall 2020, Fatima Jamal became the first black trans model to model for a major menswear house in the Random Identities show in Florence.[17] Since then, Stefano Pilati works as Creative Director of his own brand, based between Berlin and Milan.

In 2023, Pilati was selected by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi to design a collection for Fendi.[18]

Personal life

Pilati moved to Berlin with his partner in 2013.[19][16]

See also

References

  1. [1]
    Vogue. "Stefano Pilati Biography". Retrieved 14 September 2014.
  2. [2]
    "Stefano Pilati - fashion design". fashionmodeldirectory.com. Retrieved 2014-04-19.
  3. [3]
    White, Ryan (2019-03-07). "random identities by stefano pilati: la nuova collezione è una poesia visiva". i-D (in Italian). Retrieved 2019-10-29.
  4. [4]
    "Stefano Pilati". vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 2014-04-19.
  5. [5]
    businessoffashion.com Stefano Pilati
  6. [6]
    fashionista.com Eliza Brooke, Report: Stefano Pilati Is Leaving Agnona But staying on at Zegna 2015/07
  7. [7]
    Lynn Hirschberg (August 29, 2008), The Tastemaker T: The New York Times Style Magazine.
  8. [8]
    One Turns Into Four: PPR Expected to Tap Gucci Designers Today Women's Wear Daily, March 11, 2004.
  9. [9]
    Cowles, Charlotte. "Stefano Pilati Out at YSL". The Cut.
  10. [10]
    van Hoorn Alkema, Venetia (8 March 2011). "Stefano Pilati". Vogue.
  11. [11]
    LUISA ZARGANI Stefano Pilati Exits Agnona, Remains at Zegna Women's Wear Daily July 10, 2015
  12. [12]
    Cowles, Charlotte (October 11, 2013). "Stefano Pilati Talks YSL, But Very Cautiously". nymag.com. Archived from the original on 2013-10-15. Retrieved 2014-04-19.
  13. [13]
    Vanessa Friedman (September 4, 2012), Zegna hires former YSL creative director Financial Times.
  14. [14]
    Charlie Porter (November 10, 2016), Can this man save the suit? Financial Times.
  15. [15]
    Kim, Gemma (February 3, 2016). "Stefano Pilati Leaves Ermenegildo Zegna". Fashionista.com. Retrieved October 4, 2016.
  16. [16]
    Matthew Schneier (June 26, 2017), A Surprise Collection, From Stefano Pilati, Revealed on Instagram New York Times.
  17. [17]
    Abad, Mario (2020-01-13). "Fatima Jamal (FatFemme) Made History on Florence Runway". PAPER. Retrieved 2021-01-15.
  18. [18]
    Jack Moss (25 October 2023), Fendi’s 1920s-inspired collaboration with guest designer Stefano Pilati has arrived Wallpaper.
  19. [19]
    Louise Neri (October 13, 2013), Designer Stefano Pilati Discusses the Future of Menswear Wall Street Journal.
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