Bruce_Weber_(photographer)

Bruce Weber (photographer)

Bruce Weber (photographer)

American photographer and film director (born 1946)


Bruce Weber (born March 29, 1946) is an American fashion photographer[1] and occasional filmmaker.[2] He has made ad campaigns for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren,[3] Pirelli, Abercrombie & Fitch, Revlon, and Gianni Versace, and made work for Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, Elle, Life, Interview, and Rolling Stone magazines.

Quick Facts Born, Occupation(s) ...

Life and work

Weber was born in Greensburg, Pennsylvania, to a Jewish family.[4] His fashion photography first appeared in the late 1970s in GQ magazine, where he had frequent cover photos. Nan Bush, his longtime companion and agent, was able to secure a contract with Federated Department Stores to shoot the 1978 Bloomingdales mail catalog. He came to the attention of the general public in the late 1980s and early 1990s with his advertising images for Calvin Klein.[5] He was first approached by Klein to work on an underwear campaign, and Weber took inspiration from Herbert List's shoot in Santorini.[6] His straightforward black-and-white shots, featuring an unclothed woman and man on a swing facing each other, two clothed men in bed, and model Marcus Schenkenberg suggestively holding jeans in front of himself in a shower, catapulted them both into the national spotlight.[6][7] His photograph for Calvin Klein of Olympic athlete Tom Hintnaus in white briefs is an iconic image.[8][9] He photographed the winter 2006 Ralph Lauren Collection.

A Weber photograph in the background on display at an Abercrombie and Fitch store

Some of Weber's earliest fashion photography appeared in the SoHo Weekly News and featured a spread of men wearing only underwear. The photos became the center of controversy and Weber was told by some that he would never find work as a fashion photographer again. This reputation stuck with him as he says: "I don't really work editorially in a large number of magazines because a lot of magazines don't want my kind of photographs. It's too risky for them."[10][5][11]

After doing photo shoots for and of famous people (many of whom were featured in Andy Warhol's Interview magazine), Weber made short films of teenage boxers (Broken Noses),[2][12] his beloved pet dogs, and later, a longer film entitled Chop Suey.[13][14] He directed Let's Get Lost, a 1988 documentary about jazz trumpeter Chet Baker.[15][16]

Weber's photographs are occasionally in color; however, most are in black and white or shades of a tone.[2] They appear in compilations in books including A House is Not a Home,[17] as well as Bear Pond and Gentle Giants. The latter two are books of his photographs of his pet dogs.[18]

Weber began collaborating with crooner Chris Isaak in the mid-1980s, photographing Isaak in 1986 for his second album, Chris Isaak. In 1988, Weber photographed a shirtless Isaak in bed for a fashion spread in Rolling Stone.[19] Isaak appeared in Let's Get Lost and Weber has directed a music video for Isaak. Weber photographed Harry Connick, Jr. for his 1991 album Blue Light, Red Light. In 1993, Weber photographed singer-songwriter Jackson Browne for his 1993 album I'm Alive.

Weber at Condé Nast publishing house in Milan

Filmmaking

Weber's cinematic works—including his five feature-length films—often begin with a photo sitting. "All my films begin from finding someone I want to take a photograph of,"[20] Weber told the Sunday Times of London in 2008.

Broken Noses (1987)

While he was photographing the Olympic hopefuls for Interview Magazine in 1984, Weber met Andy Minsker, a young boxer from Oregon, and started interviewing him on camera.[21] While he originally intended to make a short to accompany an exhibition he was opening in Paris, Weber became very excited when he reviewed the dailies and decided to continue the story.[21] Broken Noses (1987), the resulting feature documentary, was nominated for the Grand Jury Award at Sundance in 1988.[21]

Let's Get Lost (1988)

As Weber was completing work on Broken Noses, he met the jazz trumpeter and vocalist Chet Baker and began filming him, again with a mind to creating a short film based on their portrait sitting.[21] But filming with Baker continued right through the presentation of Broken Noses in Cannes that year—with Weber ultimately assembling the footage of travel, recording sessions, and interviews into his second feature, Let's Get Lost (1988). The film debuted in Venice (where it won the Cinecritica award) and was subsequently nominated for a Grand Jury Award at Sundance, and for an Oscar for Best Documentary Feature.[21] Filming took a year with Weber approaching it, as he told The Times of London, "like his (Baker's) interpretation of a song, open-ended, not lyrical or strict."[22] The film features clips of Baker "in his prime in the 1950s...combined with his drug-damaged incarnation in the film's present day: gaunt and spaced out but still striking." Baker, Weber said, "was like a geyser in a national park. Exploding up and raining and raining back down, falling apart on everyone."[22]

Chop Suey (2001)

Chop Suey, a kaleidoscopic portrait of the wrestler Peter Johnson, was released in 2001. The Sunday Times of London reviewed it as "an aesthetic autobiography, in which he ruminates on some of his heroes and inspirations."[23] According to a New York Times review at the time the film "moves easily between video and film and between black-and-white and color as Mr. Weber explores the world around him, a world that he finds full of beauty and erotic possibility. One of his most engaging discoveries is the 91-year-old Sir Wilfred, who as a young desert explorer made photographs of Bedouin tribesman that prefigure Mr. Weber's own work."[24]

A Letter to True (2004)

Weber released the impressionistic anti-war film A Letter to True in 2004,[21] in the aftermath of 9/11.[25] The film is an 'audiovisual scrapbook'[26] and addressed to one of Weber's beloved golden retrievers."[27] In a review of the film The Sunday Times of London details how Weber rhapsodises over some of his favourite people, memories and ideas. (He) is a shameless old softie for whom dogs are emblematic of a happy home, (and)‘cherishes domestic security amid the fear created by the…attacks."[28]

The Treasure of His Youth (2022)

Weber's fifth feature-length film focuses on the prominent Italian photojournalist Paolo Di Paolo, who was 94 when Weber began shooting the documentary.[29]

Short Films

His work-in-progress Robert Mitchum feature, Nice Girls Don't Stay for Breakfast was screened at the New York Film Festival in 2017.[30] He has also directed seven short films: Beauty Brothers, Parts I-IV (1987), Backyard Movie (1991), Gentle Giants (1994), The Teddy Boys of the Edwardian Drape Society (1995), Wine and Cupcakes (2007), The Boy Artist (2008), and Liberty City is Like Paris to Me (2009).[21]

Sexual assault allegations

In December 2017, model Jason Boyce sued Weber in New York State Supreme Court, claiming sexual assault, including inappropriate touching and kissing during a 2014 casting session.[31][32] The suit also targets Jason Kanner of Soul Artist Management, which managed Boyce when the alleged assault took place, and Little Bear Inc., the production company operated by Weber's companion, Nan Bush.[33] A second model, Mark Ricketson, came forward in December 2017 alleging similar claims and joined Boyce's lawsuit against Weber.[34]

Weber has denied the allegations,[35] stating to The New York Times that the allegations were "untrue" and that he had "never touched anyone inappropriately".[36]

In January 2018, The New York Times detailed sexual assault allegations by 15 male models against Weber.[37]

In January 2019, it was reported that Weber asked to dismiss the original suit by Jason Boyce, with evidence provided that the model sent him racy photos and texts prior to and after the shoots.[38]

By 2020, the Plaintiffs' cases against Weber began to face apparent setbacks, and in June 2020, Lisa Bloom, a high-powered harassment claims lawyer representing Weber's accusers in various suits, was ordered to pay Weber $28,000 in legal costs after Boyce refused to answer certain questions at a deposition.[39]

By September 2021, the 3 cases against Weber were each either dismissed or settled with no admission or finding of guilt on Weber's part.[40]

On 3 April 2024, The Hollywood Reporter published an interview on Alan Ritchson wherein the Reacher star comments on prior allegations against Weber and Mario Testino reported by The New York Times:[41]

Some of the stories were just like mine. I was just starting to build a platform and get my voice in the business, and I wondered, ‘Should I say something?’ Because all of the stories that those models were telling were my own. It’s all true.

Personal life

Weber is married to Nan Bush[42] who is also his agent and one of his collaborators.[43]

In a 2002 interview he said, "I've had a lot of great romances. Men and women, I mean I feel like I can fall in love almost every day. I feel sorry for people who don't feel that."[43]

He has lived in Miami since 1998.[44][45]

Films

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Music videos

In 1990, Weber directed the music video for the Pet Shop Boys single "Being Boring". He filmed a party with a diverse group of models. The video was filmed in one day by two film crews in a house on Long Island. Content including male and female nudity prevented the video from being played on MTV in the United States. In 1996 he directed the video for the Pet Shop Boys single "Se a vida é (That's the Way Life Is)" on location in a Wet 'n' Wild, a water park near Orlando, Florida. In 2002, he again directed a Pet Shop Boys video, for the song "I Get Along" from the album Release. Weber filmed this video on location at his own Little Bear studio in New York City. He also directed the music video for the Chris Isaak song "Blue Spanish Sky".

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Bibliography

Books and monographs

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Little Bear Press

Bruce and his wife, Nan, began the publishing imprint Little Bear Press where, in addition to monographs and exhibition catalogs, they have published an independent arts journal titled All-American. While some volumes have been published by external publishers, the bulk of the series has been published by Little Bear Press. The All-American publishes works by artists, photographers, essayists, poets and other personalities. The subjects of the journal are sometimes already well known but just as often, the participants and subjects of All-American are noteworthy not for fame, but because their stories or accomplishments reveal something that Weber believes will resonate with readers on a deeper and more personal level. His dedication to the All-American project is motivated by a desire to connect, inspire, and support the work of emerging artists.

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Museums and Libraries

Weber exhibits his work in prominent museums around the world, often working closely with the curator and art director Dimitri Levas to realize his vision. Weber's most recent solo shows include "Far From Home" at Dallas Contemporary (2016), "Detroit: Bruce Weber" at the Detroit Institute of Arts (2012), and "Haiti/Little Haiti" (2010) at the Museum of Contemporary Art in North Miami.

Other books

  • Rolling Stone: The Photographs, Simon & Schuster Editions (1989), pp. ??-??
  • Pictures Of Peace, Alfred A. Knopf (1991), pp. ??-??
  • Bruce Hainley and David Rimanelli, Shock of the Newfoundland: Bruce Weber's canine camera, "Artforum International 33" (April 1995), pp. 78–81.
  • Il Tempo E La Moda, Skira; Exhibition Catalogue: "Biennale Firenze" (1996), pp. ??-??
  • Gianni Versace, Rock and Royalty, Abbeville Press (February 1997), pp. ??-??
  • David Leddick, The Male Nude, New York: Taschen (1998), pp. ??-??
  • Pirelli Calendar 1964–2004, Rizzoli (2004), pp. ??-??
  • Heel To Heal (2004), pp. ??-??
  • Paintings of New York, 1800–1950 (2005), pp. ??-??
  • Monica Bellucci, Rizzoli (2010), pp. ??-??
  • Kate Moss, Rizzoli (2012), pp. ??-??

References

  1. "Bruce Weber". Photography. Victoria and Albert Museum. July 29, 2015.
  2. Coburn, Marcia Froelke (December 16, 1987). "BAD BRUCE". chicagotribune.com. Retrieved April 9, 2020.
  3. Muschamp, Herbert (November 14, 1999). "Beefcake for the Masses". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved January 10, 2022.
  4. American Photo. February 1998.
  5. Ferguson, Michael; Ferguson, Michael S. (2003). Idol Worship: A Shameless Celebration of Male Beauty in the Movies. STARbooks Press. ISBN 978-1-891855-48-1.
  6. Coad, David (February 7, 2014). The Metrosexual: Gender, Sexuality, and Sport. SUNY Press. ISBN 978-0-7914-7841-7.
  7. Carroll, Rosemary, "Bruce Weber" Archived February 27, 2014, at the Wayback Machine, BOMB Magazine, Spring 1985. Retrieved October 24, 2012.
  8. The Bulletin. J. Haynes and J.F. Archibald. 1997.
  9. Out. Here Publishing. November 2001.
  10. Caley, Matthew; Lannin, Steve (June 1, 2005). Pop Fiction: The Song in Cinema. Intellect Books. ISBN 978-1-84150-906-8.
  11. Owens, Mitchell (February 13, 1997). "Bruce Weber's Pictures of Home (Who Says He's No Homebody?)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved January 10, 2022.
  12. Greenwood, Phoebe (April 12, 2024). "Self charming the light and dark sides of Chet Baker". The Times. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  13. "About". Bruce Weber Official Website. Bruce Weber.
  14. Greenwood, Phoebe (April 12, 2024). "Self charming the light and dark sides of Chet Baker". The Times. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  15. Porter, Edward (April 12, 2024). "Chop Suey the Sunday Times review". The Times. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  16. Kehr, Dave (October 5, 2001). "FILM IN REVIEW; 'Chop Suey'". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  17. Koski, Lorna (November 15, 2013). "Bruce Weber: Ready or Not". WWD. Retrieved April 15, 2024.
  18. "A holy fool atop the Twin Towers". www.ft.com. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  19. Koski, Lorna (November 15, 2013). "Bruce Weber: Ready or Not". WWD. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  20. Porter, Edward (April 15, 2024). "A Letter to True The Sunday Times review". The Times. ISSN 0140-0460. Retrieved April 15, 2024.
  21. Kenny, Glenn (December 8, 2022). "Review: 'The Treasure of His Youth: The Photographs of Paolo Di Paolo' Delights". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 12, 2024.
  22. "Film at Lincoln Center". Film at Lincoln Center / NYFF. Retrieved March 21, 2023.
  23. Bernstein, Jacob; Schneier, Matthew; Friedman, Vanessa (January 13, 2018). "Male Models Say Mario Testino and Bruce Weber Sexually Exploited Them". The New York Times. Retrieved January 14, 2018.
  24. Petrarca, Emilia (December 1, 2017). "This Famous Fashion Photographer Is Being Sued for Harassment". The Cut. Retrieved December 1, 2017.
  25. Lockwood, Lisa (December 22, 2017). "Bruce Weber Denies All Allegations of Wrongdoing in Answer to Complaint". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved January 3, 2018.
  26. Friedman, Vanessa (January 13, 2018). "Condé Nast Crafts Rules to Protect Models From Harassment". The New York Times. Retrieved January 14, 2018.
  27. Bernstein, Jacob; Schneier, Matthew; Friedman, Vanessa (January 13, 2018). "Male Models Say Mario Testino and Bruce Weber Sexually Exploited Them". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved January 22, 2018.
  28. Gardner, Chris (April 3, 2024). "The High Highs and Low Lows of Alan Ritchson". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved April 4, 2024.
  29. Tim Adams, Mad about the boys, The Guardian, 30 June 2002
  30. Cashdan, Marina (November 17, 2010). "Weber Takes to the Streets in an Exhibition Focusing on Miami's Haitian Community". The Huffington Post. Retrieved June 11, 2013.
  31. Boardman, Micky (December 2, 2010). "Bruce Weber On Haiti, The Kennedys and His Many, Many Pet Dogs". artbasel.aol.com. Archived from the original on October 4, 2013. Retrieved June 11, 2013.

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