Bazin (or basin) is a West African fabric with its origin in Mali, made from hand-dyed cotton, resulting in a damask textile known for its stiffness and vibrant sheen. It is primarily recognized as the most commonly used fabric for crafting a Boubou, a long, loose traditional outerwear worn by both men and women, particularly in West Africa. ^[1]

The process of crafting Bazin begins with cotton damask fabric. Hand-dyeing, a meticulous and often labor-intensive task undertaken by skilled women, characterizes this traditional artistry. The initial steps involve importing materials, predominantly cotton, and occasionally silk or wool from Germany, the Netherlands, or China. Following material acquisition, the fabric is precisely cut to standard dimensions.

To transform the white damask into vibrant Bazin, an elaborate dyeing process ensues. The fabric undergoes immersion in a dye bath, followed by rinsing and draining. This cycle is repeated until the desired color and intricate patterns emerge. Subsequently, the dyed Bazin undergoes a thorough cold water wash to eliminate any remaining products. The final step, essential for preventing fabric tearing, involves sun-drying.

Originally, Bazin was dyed with natural indigo, utilizing ash-based potash and clay in a harmless dyeing process. However, since the 1990s, manufacturing processes have evolved with the adoption of chemical dyes, caustic soda, and hydrosulfate. Upon selecting the desired dye, caustic soda and hydrosulfate are dissolved in water. This chemical reaction enhances the resistance of the dye on cotton, marking a modernization of Bazin production techniques while preserving its rich cultural heritage. ^[2]

Bazin production comprises three distinct types, each offering a unique appeal and varying in affordability:

• Premium Bazin: The premium bazin stands out with its crafting technique, utilizing 100% fine cotton of superior quality. When exposed to dye, it emits an exceptional shine, establishing it as the epitome of quality among the three types.

• Mid-Grade Bazin: The mid-grade bazin is the result of Chinese competition, producing a variant of inferior quality compared to the premium bazin. Despite reduced quality, it presents a more affordable option, costing about two times less than its higher-grade counterpart.

• Budget-Friendly Bazin: The budget-friendly bazin caters to smaller budgets, providing an affordable alternative that costs up to four times less than the premium bazin. This type allows individuals with limited means to access the elegance of bazin.

Distinguishing between these types is often a skill mastered by women and Bazin sellers. However, a hands-on approach, where individuals see and touch the fabric, makes it easy to identify the premium bazin due to its unique texture that sets it apart from the other variants.

Boubou (also bubu; from wolof mbubbe, bubu or gran mbubu) originates from the Wolof word mbubb, meaning a garment that can be slipped on over the head and used generically to describe long, flowing, ankle length robes worn by both men and women across the predominantly Muslim West African Sahel region from Senegal to Northern Nigeria. The traditional boubou is an ample tunic with open sleeves and a triangular or rectangular breast pocket. Boubou both formal and everyday wear is made in all different materials for both men and women. Aside from being comfortable and practical, it provides covering in accordance to Islamic beliefs. Usually, Boubou is constructed in three parts.^[3]

In Senegal, the most elegant boubous are made from high quality cotton damask, the bazin riche. They are heavily embroidered with the same color or contrasting silk thread.^[4] Ornate embroidered patterns of circles and swirls adorn the pockets, neck opening, front, back and other parts of the gown depending on the design.^[4][5]

White and light blue are the classic colors and are commonly worn in Mauritania, Western Sahara, Mali and Niger. Bright colors with multicolor embroidery are worn in Senegal and Gambia. Less expensive boubous are made from lower quality cotton damask fabric imported from China or India and usually have no embroidery.^[6]

Traditionally the Senegalese boubou can be heavily embroidered, it is also known by various names depending on the ethnic group and the region in which it is being worn. In Senegal everyday wear is a caftan, or boubou with pants for the men and pagne a garment that women wrap around their hips and wear under a boubou.[Madison and Hansen, pg 126, 176]

The formal ensemble for men is a three piece outfit consisting of a caftan, a tchaya (Wolof word for loose trousers), grand boubou and a white embroidered skullcap, pillbox cap, or red or brown fez. In Mauritania and Western Sahara a similar garment is commonly worn with sirwal (Arabic word for loose trousers) in matching damask fabric and hawli (Hassaniya dialect word for a long rectangular piece of cloth that is used as a head wrap or turban). In Niger a similar type of boubou is worn. And Tuareg men commonly wear wrap turbans and face veils. In Mali, traditional clothing made of white mud cloth and associated with the towns of Djenne and Timbuktu was the type of luxury boubou, and the lomasa primarily associated with the Tunka, the ruler of Ngalam, once a Soninke kingdom in present-day Senegal.^[7]

• A grand boubou
• A boubou with golden embroidery
• A wedding dress made with bazin
• Boubou vert
• Woman, dressed in a boubou embroidered in turquoise blue bazin