Berluti

Berluti

Berluti

Prestigious leather maker

Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[1] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[2] The latest creative director was Kris Van Assche (2018-2021).[3]

Quick Facts Company type, Industry ...
Berluti original store on rue Marbeuf in the 8th arrondissement of Paris

History

Logo until 2018
Alessandro Sartori was Berluti's creative director for 5 years, overseeing its first clothing collections

Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[4] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[5]

In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[6]

From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[7] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[8][9]

Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[10]

In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[11]

In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[12]

In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[13]

All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[14] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.

Berluti will design the French team's uniforms for the opening ceremony of the Olympics and Paralympics.[15]

Creative directors

Recognition

In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[25]

References

  1. [1]
    Berluti Stores
  2. [2]
    LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014
  3. [3]
    The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019
  4. [4]
    "Olga Berluti" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 November 2013. Retrieved 1 December 2013.
  5. [5]
    Masidlover, Nadya (15 June 2012). "LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  6. [6]
    Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.
  7. [7]
    businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault
  8. [8]
    Socha, Miles (17 March 2014). "Louis Vuitton Taps Edouard Schneider to Head P.R." WWD. Retrieved 18 March 2014.
  9. [9]
    Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.
  10. [10]
    Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.
  11. [11]
    Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.
  12. [12]
    Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.
  13. [13]
    Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.
  14. [14]
    WW, FashionNetwork com. "Berluti picks up speed with a large production site in Italy". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  15. [15]
    Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.
  16. [16]
    berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015
  17. [17]
    Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016
  18. [18]
    LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment Archived 3 September 2016 at the Wayback Machine vogue.com 1 September 2016
  19. [19]
    Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01
  20. [20]
    Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com
  21. [21]
    Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017
  22. [22]
    Fall/Winter 2017 Archived 9 May 2017 at the Wayback Machine berluti.com
  23. [23]
    Schneier, Matthew (30 March 2018). "Haider Ackermann Exits Berluti". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  24. [24]
    Yotka, Steff (3 April 2018). "Kris Van Assche Named Artistic Director at Berluti". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  25. [25]
    Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017
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