Tapis_(Indonesian_weaving_style)

Tapis (Indonesian weaving style)

Tapis (Indonesian weaving style)

Native Indonesian weaving style of Lampungese

For other uses, see Tapis.

Tapis (Surat Ulu: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia.[5][6][7][8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.[9]

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Production

Tapis craftswoman embroider the basic design pattern in the tapis-making process at Lampung, Indonesia

Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery.[10][11] The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric.[10][11] Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins.[10][12][13]

The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste.[14] The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area.[14][15]

Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy.[13] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures.[11] Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery.[16]

Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java[10] and Pisang Island.[17]

Use

A Lampungese woman (right) wearing a tapis sarong, with old coins hanging from the bottom

Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration.[13] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs.[18]

Reception

Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung.[10] Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication",[19] while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth".[15]

The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners.[10]

See also

References

Footnotes
  1. [1]
    Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
  2. [2]
    Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3): 4–15. doi:10.1086/DIA41504888. S2CID 187976059. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  3. [3]
    Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books LLC.
  4. [4]
    Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  5. [5]
    Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
  6. [6]
    Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3): 4–15. doi:10.1086/DIA41504888. S2CID 187976059. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  7. [7]
    Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books LLC.
  8. [8]
    Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  9. [9]
    Subagio, Puji Yosep (1999). "North Coast Java Batik" (PDF). Tokyo University. Retrieved 15 March 2021.[dead link]
  10. [10]
    Oyos Saroso (22 January 2007). "Rusiana Makki, empowering women through 'tapis'". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 24 March 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  11. [11]
    Maxwell 2003, pp. 112–113
  12. [12]
    Rodgers, Summerfield & Summerfield 2007, p. 36
  13. [13]
    Nia S. Kim (10 June 2001). "Lampung offers a whole lot more besides jungle adventures". The Jakarta Post. Archived from the original on 12 October 2012. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  14. [14]
    Maxwell 2003, p. 316
  15. [15]
    Forshee 2006, p. 144
  16. [16]
    (Maxwell 2003, p. 184)
  17. [17]
    Backshall 2003, p. 502
  18. [18]
    Maxwell 2003, p. 319
  19. [19]
    Stevie Emilia (10 April 2011). "Journeying through textile traditions". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
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