Shoaling_coefficient_as_a_function_of_depth.svg


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English: Shoaling coefficient K S as a function of relative water depth h / L 0 , describing the effect of wave shoaling on the wave height – based on conservation of energy and results from Airy wave theory . The local wave height H at a certain mean water depth h is equal to H = K S H 0 , with H 0 the wave height in deep water (i.e. when the water depth is greater than about half the wavelength ). The shoaling coefficient K S depends on h / L 0 , where L 0 is the wavelength in deep water: L 0 = g /(2π) T 2 , with T the wave period and g the gravity of Earth . The blue line is the shoaling coefficient according to Green's law for waves in shallow water, i.e. when the water depth is less than 1/20 times the local wavelength L = T √( gh ).
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Author Kraaiennest
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See:
  • R.G. Dean & R.A. Dalrymple (1991) Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists , World Scientific, pp. 53–61 & 100–112 ISBN : 9810204205 .
  • Y. Goda (2000) Random seas and design of maritime structures (2nd ed.), World Scientific, pp. 5–9, 45–57 & 75–78 ISBN : 981-02-3256-X .

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24 July 2017